
At
dawn we visit the sacred Ganges for a boat ride. Every morning
at dawn hundreds of worshippers can be seen bathing in the
sacred waters. The great river banks are lined with an endless
chain of stone steps-the ghats-that stretch from one end of the
city to the other. The Ghats form an impressive part of the
religious landscape of the city. Proceeding downstream at a
leisurely pace, you would be pointed out the significant temples
and buildings as well as the changing architectural style. Life
and death go hand in hand in Varanasi. While young people seek
prosperity and protection from harmful influences, the older
generation comes to Varanasi to cleanse their souls in the
forgiving waters in preparation for their ultimate dissolution.
Believing that anyone who dies in the river of life in Varanasi
gains freedom from the cycle of birth and death, the City of
Light has become a haven for the sick and aged waiting out their
final days. The smoke that billows from the crematoriums on the
edge of the river gives testimony to their final release from
life's earthly confines. We would docked our boat at Manikarnika
(Cremation) Ghat. On any given day, anywhere from a few dozen to
a few hundred corpses are cremated here, The ghat is assiduous
with activity as the cremated bodies threw up smoke and fire.
Following the boat ride we set off on foot to explore the inner
city. Through a twisted maze of narrow alleys, home to numerous
shrines and pilgrim shops, we walk back a few centuries. Life
here has stood still for years. The homes, the shops and even
the cattle have not changed over the centuries. It is a
brilliant nostalgic experience of timelessness!
Afternoon, we will visit several temples and the Hindu
University at Benares. First stop would be the Bharat Mata
(temple of Mother India). Inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi, it
features a huge marble map of India on the ground floor. Next
up, the Durga Temple. Known for its bright red color and the
playful, if sometimes aggressive, monkeys that run amok there,
the Durga Temple is one of the most imposing architectural
monuments in Varanasi.
The university, which occupies a large piece of land at the
southern end of town, is also home to the New Vishwanatha
Temple. The New Temple is modern in design and open to Hindus
and non-Hindus alike. Surrounded by palm trees, it is a splendid
white marble structure that shines in the afternoon sun against
a pale blue sky. Inside, the temple is spacious and airy. The
interior walls are covered with Vedic art above inscriptions
from the Bhagavad Gita and Upanishads. In the center of the
first floor is the Shiva linga.
This evening we take a short trip to the Buddhist city of
Sarnath. It is here that the Buddha preached his first sermons
after attaining enlightenment. The highlight of this tour would
be a participation in the evening prayer service (aarti) of the
main Buddhist temple here - the synchronized chanting of hymns
to the accompaniment of traditional temple music is a sole
stirring experience.
Overnight at Taj Ganges - a 5* Taj Group Hotel